One is to protect and reinforce the outside edge of the cue, a wooden edge would chip and wear very easily. The second is to glue the back of the brass face to the end grain of the cue this strengthens the end grain and stops it splitting open if the cue is knocked or dropped.
The SD joints are a brass quick release joints with our own special thread. I will not use quick release joints to join the cues themselves but I think it is ok for the extensions where you only play one shot and then unscrew them, with speed being an important factor.
The male joint is electro-polished for a bright finish. The wood to wood faces of the joint are protected with outside collars made of black thermo-set double linen phenolic impregnated plastic. The SD joint is a quick release joint fitted in the very end of the cue butt, this allows the fast attachment of an SD telescopic extension to play shots beyond the reach of a normal rest shot.
A hand spliced cue has the main Ash or Maple shaft Planed by hand to a tapper towards the butt end on two opposites sides. Decorative wood usually Ebony or Rosewood is then glued onto the shaft to replace the timber removed by planning. This is then repeated on the other two sides of the shaft.
The decorative wood is then planed down to follow the shape and taper of the original shaft, leaving the distinctive hand spliced design. This process can be repeated again lower down the butt with other woods and veneers to give a more decorative appearance.
Hand splicing adds to the look of the cue but also the use of heavy woods such as Ebony help to give the cue natural weight and balance. I think the best finish is Raw Linseed Oil. This protects the cue from moisture in damp or humid conditions and also stops it from drying out in hot and dry conditions.
It gives the cue a smooth finish that does not drag on your bridge when cueing and also enhances the natural beauty of the wood. The butt should have a hard wax burnish that gives it a natural smooth feel and a silky shine.
The shafts should not be waxed as this will make the cue drag on your bridge hand when cueing All Parris cues are oil finished with a wax burnish on the butt. Oil finished cues should be re oiled on a regular basis. See our cue care section for details also the Accessories section for Cue Oil and Wax. We do have cues in our shop for customers visiting us to try out and buy on the day. With mail order cues I do prefer to make these to order, so that I can insure you get exactly what you want rather than trying to find something in stock that is close to your requirements.
The delivery times for cues vary depending on model and style. Delivery times do depend on the availability of the correct shaft for your cue. The shaft has to have the correct weight, balance, rigidity, feel and of course the right look.
All shafts are individually selected for each cue by John. We have shafts constantly in various stages of production with a new batch being finished every weeks. Shafts take from 6 to 12 months to produce depending on the model, it is important they are made slowly to ensure stability.
Although every effort will be made to complete your cue as soon as possible, delivery times quoted are approximate and can with some of the higher end cues take considerably longer.
If we are taking longer it is only because we are perfectionists and trying to find the ideal shaft to make your perfect cue. Demand for Ultimate cues has increased considerably over the last few years which has caused an increase in delivery times for these cues.
Parris Cues cannot be held liable for cues taking longer than the approximate times above. They are sent by courier and are fully insured in transit at no risk to the customer. All items must be signed for at time of delivery. All items must be checked for damage at time of delivery and signed for as damaged if not in perfect condition.
UK mainland deliveries are sent on a next day service. UK highlands and islands are normally a two day service. Overseas deliveries are by UPS air courier and normally take between two and five days. Accessories are sent by First Class post or Air Mail depending on destination. Delivery times may vary depending on local post. In the unlikely event that your cue is not suitable i.
The first thing most players do is roll their cue on a Snooker table to check it. This does not necessarily give a true indication of straightness. A lot of cues Parris included are not a straight taper, there may be one or two taper changes along the length.
This tends to make the cue seem cigar shaped and when it is then rolled on a table it tends to pivot and wobble usually at the point just above the splicing. The best way to test for straightness is to close one eye and sight down the cue turning it as you look to make sure it looks straight. This after all is what you look at when you are sighting on a shot. A video guide to Cleaning Your Cue is also available.
A video guide to Re Tipping your Cue is also available. To maintain a good contact with a brass jointed cue, it is important to keep the brass faces of the joint clean. A build up of dirt, grease and oxidisation on the faces stops the joint from locking together properly and can make the cue sound as though something is loose when striking the ball.
Billiards as a general class of games is played with a stick called a cue which is used to strike billiard balls, moving them around a cloth-covered billiard table bounded by rubber cushions attached to the confining rails of the table. Carom or carambole billiards often simply called "billiards" in many varieties of non-British English is a type of billiards in which the table is bounded completely by cusions, and in which in most variants three balls are used.
Pocket billiards , most commonly called "pool" , is a form of billiards usually equipped with sixteen balls a cue ball and fifteen object balls , played on a pool table with six pockets built into the rails, splitting the cushions. The pockets one at each corner, and one in the center of each long rail provide targets or in some cases, hazards for the balls.
The two types of billiards have developed into a wide array of specific games with widely divergent rules, and require equipment that differs in some key parameters. Skill at one type of billiards-family game is widely applicable to the other, but expertise usually requires at least a degree of specialization. A few games such as English billiards are hybrids, using carom balls on pocket tables, and snooker, a non-pool-based pocket game, also uses such tables. Snooker is a cue sport played on a table covered with a green cloth or baize, with pockets at each of the four corners and in the middle of each of the long side cushions.
The game is played using a cue and 22snooker balls: The red balls are initially placed in a triangular formation, and the other coloured balls on marked positions on the table known as "spots". Players execute shots by striking the cue ball with the cue, causing the cue ball to hit a red or coloured ball. Points are scored by sinking the red and coloured balls knocking them into the pockets, called "potting" in the correct sequence.
A player receives additional points if the opponent commits a foul. A player or team wins a frame individual game of snooker by scoring more points than the opponent s. A player wins a match when a predetermined number of frames have been won. Snooker, generally regarded as having been invented in India by British army officers, is popular in many of the English-speaking and commonwealth contries with top professional players attaining multi-million-pound career earnings from the game. The sport is now increasingly popular in china.
Billiards is actually the generic term for cue sports, including pool, carom billiards, snooker, etc. I believe used more often in the US, because we like short words. This is usually decided by a coin flip, lag, or the winner of the previous game. In some versions if the player breaking Pots a ball he has to take what was potted.
Strips or solids in other rules the table is open and he gets to choose what he wants, which is a huge advantage if no ball is Potted on the break the 2nd player get a chance to pot a ball and the table is open. On an open table he can strike any ball with the cue ball with the exception of the 8.
The Game continues until one of the players pots all his balls. He calls the pocket he intends to pot the 8 in. You can't call the 8 in a pocket, while trying to Pot a stripe or solid ball 9 ball in 9 ball the balls 1 - 9 are racked in a diamond pattern with the head ball being the 1 and the middle ball being the 9.
If any ball is potted the player continues. The "object ball" will be the lowest remaining numbered ball. The player leaving the table racks for the next player. The round continues until all players have shot in that round. The Player with the lowest amount of shots wins the pot. However if the lowest number of shots is held by more than 1 person all players place another quarter in the pot, and the game continues until only 1 player wins the Pot at the end of a round one tie all tie.
Related Questions Is pool or snooker easier? Why is billiards also known as "pool"? What is the difference between Billiards and Snooker? How is snooker different to pool? When playing pool, what does a snooker mean? Pool and snooker - if someone's good at pool would they be good at snooker and vice versa? Are there any good places to play pool billiards in America? What is the difference between billiard tables, pool tables, and snooker tables? Will playing pool improve my snooker?
How is the set up of snooker different to that of pool? Why is Snooker so hard compared to pool? Aside from the pool game meaning, what can "snookered" mean? Is billiards and pool the same thing? What is the basic difference between billiards and snooker? How do the rules differ? What is the difference between carrom and snooker? Still have a question? Related Questions What is the difference between pool and billiards? There is no such thing as a "best tip".
Each have different playing qualities. Talisman tips are prone to delaminating in certain sizes, so far i have found that 11mm are less prone to delaminating layers of the tip falling apart. Obviously if your ferrule is less than 11mm you can either trim the tip and shape it, or have a "mushroomed tip".
They are quite difficult to shape, as with most laminated tips, so i would advise trimming using a scalpel or a sharp craft knife and shaping with a nail file. Elkmasters are very soft in comparison to the talisman tips, although they will need replacing more often than a talisman tip. Basically, they are both very good tips but the only way to see whether you like how they play, is to try them. My advice to you is that if you have never tried a laminated tip before , you should try a laminated "Mike Wooldridge supertip" as they are a improved version of the talisman tip but softer and more suitable for snooker and UK 8ball pool.
If you like pressed tips, you might already know that a good elkmaster or blue diamond is not as easy to come by as they used to be New method of production To save you going through boxes of elkmasters or blue diamonds looking for a good one, your best bet is to try these Buffalo Diamond tips are excellent, They are exactly the same as a good Blue Diamond tip. Personally i use Talisman Tips, But i used to use elkmaster So i am not biased Talisman tips will take some getting used to, you may find that you will miscue a lot more than you used to, due to the fact that the Talisman tips do not hold chalk as well as pressed tips AT FIRST after a day or two of use they will hold chalk quite well.